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Miniature Melniboneans - every film needs a figure range!

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  • #16
    (Cross-posted from [link expired].)

    Originally posted by Hapimeses
    ... way earlier in the thread someone suggested that GW should not be approached to do the models. Here, I couldn't agree less, has anyone seen their recent Lord of the Rings models? - they are pretty much exactly like the movie, and are of exceptional quality. If GW secured the licence to produce Elric models in the same fashion they secured the LoTR's licence, I would spend a lot of money on them (fortunately for me I'm not much of a fan of LoTRs really, or I'd be very poor).
    GW's LotR figures - maybe not all, but certainly the best of them - were sculpted by Alan and Michael Perry.

    Alan and Michael have their own miniatures company - called, accurately but somewhat unimaginatively, Perry Miniatures (

    So, you could have a range of just that quality not produced by GW.

    The major problem is that they likely do not have the capacity to produce the figures in the quantities that would be demanded for a movie tie-in.

    Last edited by Reinart der Fuchs; 04-04-2010, 08:08 PM.


    • #17
      Heartbreaker used to have a line of minis by Chaz Elliot - his Dark
      Elf Lord was extremely Melnibonean. I'll try to post a pix of the
      primed mini (and painted after I get done). 28mm, in scale it comes
      out over 7 feet tall.

      And, as I mentioned before, I own an early copy of the RAFM 90 mm
      Elric statuette. It was OK, not great.

      Diplomacy: The ability to tell someone to
      go to hell so that they will look forward to
      making the trip.


      • #18
        I'd really like to see a secondary range done in 15mm, possibly even as prepaints.

        Note: for those of you who hate prepaints, they have two big advantages:

        1. Kids will buy them, so you will always find opponents.


        2. You can always dress up the paintjob and improve it. This is what I did with my Axis & Allies Minis, and they now look quite nice.


        • #19
          I wouldnt mind prepaints if they were 15mm because I simply can't paint anything that small. Just not that gifted. OTOH painting is what I get them for, so...


          • #20
            Originally posted by opaloka View Post
            I wouldnt mind prepaints if they were 15mm because I simply can't paint anything that small. Just not that gifted. OTOH painting is what I get them for, so...
            I used to be more gifted, before my eyesight started to go. However, I know more tricks than I did in the old days, such as dipping, which can turn a C grade paintjob into a B+ pretty nicely.

            These were mostly shot from a distance but a few have close-ups, and they are 15s done by the dip method.
            Last edited by gloriousbattle; 01-11-2011, 12:32 PM.


            • #21
              Nice. 'Dipping' - hows that done?


              • #22
                Simple method of getting a good finish on miniatures. Works well on all scales, but you need more expertise to get it to work on larger scales like 1:32 / 54mm.

                Buy a can of Minwax Polyshades Tudor Satin (hardware stores will sell or can order this). Block paint in the miniatures. E.g., solid silver for armor, solid flesh for the face. No washes are necessary, though you can add a slight bit of highlighting if you want.

                Let the figures dry completely, then, open the Polyshades can, and stir carefully. Dip the entire figure into the can and remove it. You will now want to curse my name to the lowest pits, as you will be pulling out a runny, black glog of goo.

                However, don't worry. Most of the dip will run off, and you will be left with dark shading in the folds of the cloak, the mouth creases and eyes in the face, the "rings" in chainmail, etc. Wipe the base of the figure (only) on some tissue paper, and then set it up on some clean cardboard to dry.

                After about 2 minutes, look at it carefully. Sometimes a "drip" will form on low parts of the figure. If this happens, wipe off the drip with a little tissue and look at it again in another 2 minutes. Repeat this process until only enough dip remains on the low point to darken it sufficiently.

                Let the figure dry in a clean, windless environment like a dust-free drawer for about 24 hours.

                You end up with a piece that is very nicely shaded and has a very realistic look, and the poyurethane does not need to be sealed. It is a stronger seal already than anything you could spray on.

                Two caveats:

                1. Dipping over large areas of white will leave the figure looking dingy. This is fine if you want a grungy battlefield effect. If you want a brighter white, drybrush a little white back over the figure after the dip has COMPLETELY dried.

                2. Small scale figures like 15mm are easy. The larger they are, the hared it gets, as sometimes the dip will run in streams down big flat areas. To do big figures properly, you need to see where the dip is streaming, and wipe the area while it is still very wet.

                Hope that helps.


                • #23
                  I haven't seen anyone mentioning Hasslefree - Kev White has a couple of nice sculpts that would be suitable ...